‘Sweetbitter’ Review: Truffles and Champagne

Sometimes – in my opinion – the best characters are the ones that you hate, that you find nothing but disgust for, and then somewhere along the line they make themselves redeemable. They show a part of themselves that you didn’t see coming, but that you needed. Something that makes them make sense and makes you forget about all of the reasons that you wanted to hate them in the first place.

But then sometimes when you find that character that becomes redeemable, you wonder what is left. You’ve spent so much time being angry at the person in the show, so much time hating what they stand for and who they are, that you wonder – is what I watch this show for – is it now going to be gone?

For what seems like forever, I have despised Simone on Sweetbitter. She’s been a miserable excuse of a human being to me. I’ve felt she’s manipulative and a liar. But on this weeks Sweetbitter, something change in my opinion of her.

What changed?

Well that would be that we finally got to see a side of her that made her – well – relatable and human.


Personally, I have never had a truffle. I have no desire to have one, don’t understand why people fawn over them, and just don’t get it. BUT, this week on Sweetbitter, the restaurant became the first one in New York to have white truffles. The entire city is a buzz with excitement over them.

The way to sell them? Well that’s to parade them through the restaurant and shave them at the table so everyone can see them. The smell of them, the exclusivity of having them, it’s important to everyone there. And they aren’t cheap. Adding them to your meal is $120.

Ya, I’ll pass.

Tess can’t figure out what it is about them that makes her want one so bad. But a night out with the crew and she knows.

They smell like sex.

We know that Tess’s hormones are in overdrive and she’s not sure what she wants. But she is sure that she wants to try a truffle. And Sasha is on the kick of positivity and putting out into the world what you want. So Tess puts it out there and good ol’ Will comes through.


Here’s the thing about Will. He’s TOO NICE. Like way too nice. A girl wants a nice guy, sure. But a girl also wants some sort of danger. She wants to be swept off her feet by passion and intrigue. And Will seems like the type of guy that takes you to a quilting bee.

He’s just that boring.

But Will hears Tess when she wants to try truffles and he goes into the safe and gets her some. He puts it on her favorite – toast. God, I love a good piece of toast, so I get the allure there. I’d be happy as fuck if a man paid attention to what I want, what I liked, and served it up for me.

Will does just that for Tess. She is so happy, because no one has ever done something that kind for her. EVER. The thing about Tess, she’s fragile, but she’s not. She’s just wanting to be taken care of, loved, and appreciated. And you want that for her. You want her to have her happy ending, because she’s so optimistic and full of life.

But the thing is she’s gotta get over mistaking that kindness that some people give for emotion. Sure, Will likes her and yes, they’ve had sex. BUT that doesn’t equal forever.

Tess is overtaken by his kindness and she has to figure out what it is that she’s looking for. So when she see’s Will on the floor, she asks him to talk in private. Private being the coat closet. And talk means sticking her tongue down his throat.

I can respect that.

But you can also see that – well, that passion isn’t there. Last week when Jake stroked her nipple, she was visibly turned on. Her face lit up. You can see that everything that she wants to feel, she feels with Jake. But with Will, you can see that is missing.

She’s turned off.

I can respect that she’s trying to figure out what she wants out of life. And part of what is important about figuring things out is testing the waters. We’ve all been there (if you say you haven’t – you lie).

But I think that she needs to work out whatever it is that she needs with Jake. She’s trying, but this whole Jake and Simone shit – that’s holding him back from everything. Personally, I think Jake wants to move on and have someone in his life, but he doesn’t know how. Because one thing him and Simone have in common is their fear of intimacy. Their fear of connecting is what bonds them in a way.

Tess won’t give up on Jake. She won’t let it rest and I personally think that if anything – we need to cheer her on. Sure, we don’t know enough about Jake to say he’s the one. But hey – no one said he needed to be forever. He just needs to be right now.

And hey, Tess has figured out that she wants him. Stay the course, because I have a feeling that he’s gonna make her neck pop back and buckle her knees (yes, I just referenced an NSync song).


Simone, as we found out a few episodes ago, she’d been married before.

Her ex is in town, traveling to see the champagne that they created. She wasn’t there when he stopped by the restaurant, but she heard about it. And you can see by the look on her face, she’s destroyed over it.

Even when we’re the ones that leave someone – the pain is still there. I don’t believe for a second that we fall out of love and just forget what was. We always remember that love.

Simone may have left him, but sure, the sting of knowing that he’s in town and he hasn’t asked to see her? Well, I’d be butt hurt. I’d be pissed. So yes, I wasn’t shocked when she went to his hotel to find him. And no, I wasn’t shocked that she made sure that she looked fuckable to be there.

The two of them reminisce. And you can see that Simone is letting down her walls. She’s making sure that she is putting her best foot forward. But you know – when someone knows you – you can’t fake who you are. And her ex knows her.

Simone – in my opinion – is like Jake. She doesn’t know how to allow someone in. She doesn’t know how to just be. But she wants to. And so when she’s there, she takes a kiss that they share as a sign that maybe things can move forward. She takes it as a sign that maybe, just maybe, she made a mistake.

And so she invites him the restaurant, and she tells him that she wants to sell the champagne. She wants to move forward in her life and for her, that means a new job, a new life. But she’s passionate about this because this champagne was her baby.

But as she pours her heart out, you see that he’s not on the same wave length. I think that as we all fall in or out of love, we want to believe in the person that has changed our heart. But he sees her and he knows that she hasn’t changed. He see’s her and he knows that she’s the person that she always was.

That’s not an easy thing to swallow. The fact that you are turned down and that the person that want to love you is telling you that they didn’t want to see you – that hurts like no other.

I feel like seeing the side of Simone that let down her walls made me like her. It made me able to tolerate her. It made me feel for her. When she broke down in tears with Tess, there was no part of me that didn’t feel sorry for her.

She just wanted to be loved.

I felt like for the first time, Simone was human. And we’ve all needed to see that about her.

Agree? Disagree? Are you a fan of Sweetbitter?

Sweetbitter airs Sundays on Starz.

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.